Venice: Chapter 1

“第一节 五日

威尼斯像舞台布景,游客是临时演员,我也来充两个月的角色。

乘1号船沿大运河走了两次,两岸华丽的楼房像表情过多的女人。

好文章不必好句子连着好句子一路下去,要有傻句子笨句子似乎不通的句子,之后而来的好句子才似乎不费力气就好得不得了。人世亦如此,无时无刻不聪明会叫人厌烦。

年初的时候来过威尼斯一天,无处不“惊艳”。回忆会“净化”,心中已经安静下来。再来,住下,无穷无尽的细节又无时无刻不在眼中,仍然是“惊艳”,而且是“轰炸”,就像前年伊拉克人遭遇到的。整个意大利就是一种遗产轰炸,每天躺下去,脑袋里轰轰的,好像睡在米兰火车站。

这次到威尼斯来,随手抓了本唐人崔令钦的《教坊记》,闲时解闷。这书开首即写得好,述了长安、洛阳的教坊位置后,笔下一转,却说:

坊南西门外,即苑之东也,其间有顷余水泊,俗谓之月陂,形似偃月,故以名之。

古人最是这闲笔好,令文章一下荡开。…

…威尼斯像“赋”,铺陈雕琢,满满荡荡的一篇文章。华丽亦可以是一种压迫。

走去看温德拉敏宫,天,华格纳用了多少钱买下如此豪华的宫殿!看了一眼说明,原来华格纳只住在mezzanino,什么意思?一楼半?建筑术语mezzanino是指底楼与二楼之间的那一层,对于我这个四十年来只住平房的人来说,难以展开想象,于是想象力向另外的地方滑去。

mezzo-relievo在建筑上指中浮雕,既不是平面,也不是立体,是它们的中间状态。

音乐术语:mezzoforte,不很响,既不是很响,也不是不响;mezzopiano,不很轻,既不是很轻,也不是不轻;mezzo-soprano,女中音,既不是……也不是……

华格纳在这里逝世于一八八三年二月十三日,既不是三十天的月份,也不是三十一天的月份。他住在“中庸”哪一层?”

 

“第四节: 十八日

下午开始刮风,圣马可广场那些接吻的人,风使他们像在诀别。游客在风里都显得很严肃。”

 

“第六节: 二十五日

我可以分辨出谁是威尼斯人,谁不是威尼斯人。威尼斯人走得很快,任何熟悉自己居住地方的人都能飞快地直奔目标,而且通晓近道儿。

威尼斯人经常会碰到打招呼的人,在一个地方住久了,猫和狗都会摸清你的脾气。

我在威尼斯走路的速度开始快了,这不容易,每天经上万只鞋底磨过的街石像冰一样滑。

街上卖东西的人开始知道我不是日本人了。

克平从巴黎打电话来,讲既然我不能去,那么他这个周末来威尼斯。”



__________________________________________________________________

Words: Excerpts from Venice Diary 威尼斯日记 (1997), Ah Cheng 阿城

Photography & Edit: Axel Wang


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